Over the holidays, my parents and brother went on backpacking trip to Kalalau Valley, on the northern side of Kauai island. I have gone to Kalalau on several occasions, most recently in 2017 (also, coincidentally, also with my parents and brother that time). Katrina and the kids would join me a week later, at a resort on the eastern side of the island for the second half of my Kauai vacation.
The hike is a full day's endeavor. We hiked in on Day 1, spent Days 2/3/4 in the valley itself, then hiked out on Day 5 (plus the morning of Day 6). I sent Katrina messages via satellite-based texting every day; below is a lightly edited/embellished version of those texts:
Day 1 (hiking in) + Day 2 (swimming). All written on Day 2
Good hiking weather yesterday, modulo some wind towards the end; then a deluge overnight; but sunshine and blue skies again this morning.
I’m doing a most excellent job staring at waves and the surrounding mountains. Clouds and light rain rolled in, so I’m now having a lovely time sitting on the bluff and getting coated in drizzle. (The rest of my family has disappeared — my parents to the river, Ariel to seek refuge and grumble in his tent). I’m enjoying the relaxed pace of leisurely filtering water, cooking food, etc.
Off to swim soon. (Well, to stand in water — further out there are man-eating waves).
…
Had a fantastic time swimming (or more accurately, body-surfing) with Ariel; and then by myself, once he tired of it. Tossed a frisbee in the sand; and had a nice fire going after dark back at our campsite, before a deluge opened up and we had to beat a hasty retreat under a tarp.
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Day 3: (Valley walk)
There was a formidable dumping of rain last night, but then a beautiful sunrise and sunshine this morning.
Today was really nice in the morning… transitioning, at 4pm, to heavy rain (holy Moses, parter of water, you can’t even believe how heavy!). All four of us had gone hiking up the Kalalau valley to the “Cascades”, first through the forest on the eastern side of the valley, then on the rocky river bank, and eventually back down through the mud and bamboo grove on the western side.
We had just made it to the tarp in light drizzle to eat a late lunch before going to swim in the ocean… and then water started pouring out of the sky. Under the circumstances of needing to walk a mile each way to make it happen, the swimming outing is now canceled.
…
A break in the rain: going to fetch some water from the river, before it gets even more sedimenty overnight if the rain persists.
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Day 4: (last day in the valley; Canyoneering + swimming)
The ridiculously rainy evening suddenly transitioned to a warm blustery night, and then a still-blustery morning.
It’s our last day here in the valley. We ate breakfast, and I was going to get more water at the stream and do a quick swim; but the swim was so fun, I decided to canyoneer up the Kalalau Stream for about an hour, meeting up with my parents en route. Found a nice cold jacuzzi and sat there with my mom for a while, before heading back to camp to make lunch.
Went swimming in the ocean for a long time, it was really fun! Played with waves (they were less man-eating this time), body-surfing; played fetch with a frisbee that my brother would toss from the shore; and later swam with my mom.
Drizzle is starting, but I am obstinately sitting on the bluff (rather than under a tarp within the forest), heating up water for our forthcoming meal. May as well get some last views of the valley and the authentic Kalalau experience — rain and all.
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Day 5 (hiking out)
After a night of on-and-off rain, a beautiful morning for departure. Saw a rainbow in the sky. Mist is playing with the mountains surrounding Kalalau Valley. Waves are breaking rhythmically — calmly, methodically — over the rocks beneath the bluff, and against the rocky shoreline to the east.
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Soon, the rain returned, right as we were packing. It then went away, making for ideal hiking weather: clouds to make it not too hot; mist on top of the mountains to make it beautiful. Unfortunately, the Goldilocks weather didn’t last long: a couple hours in, it started raining. First just a light drizzle — so light that we even dropped our packs at the 6 mile mark and did the extra 0.5 mile trail to the six-mile waterfall. But once there, the mist from the waterfall combined with the drizzle from above got us thoroughly soaked… and soaked we continued to be, as the rain intensified. The Hanakoa Stream crossing was fine, though water was clearly rising; but the trail became muddier and muddier. It never felt dangerous per se, but it definitely required more attention. We never saw any oncoming traffic — and we knew there wasn’t anyone behind us, as we were the only people at the beach / Kalalau Valley the preceding night. Later, we learned that the trail had closed due to the muddy conditions.
My pace was slow — I’m guessing I was carrying significantly over 40lb (maybe even approaching 50) between the wet gear and my mom’s stuff (Ariel and I took her full load, so that she could hike with no weight whatsoever). I took frequent breaks to munch of Java Plum berries, growing plentifully along the trail. They are an acquired taste; but that day, I acquired it.
The rain continued still, not exactly soaking us any more than we already were — that was now impossible — but keeping us and the trail dripping with water. On the plus side, it kept us from overheating or needing to reapply sunblock; and the views, including walls of rain on the ocean, were still pretty. I was enjoying the trail well enough; my brother was seething, both at the rain and at his fifth continuous day of Internet-deprivation.
The rain eased right as we arrived at the 2 mile mark, although not before I had pitched my tent under the drizzle. We ate a hasty dinner under a shelter roof (hasty both because we were ready to go to sleep, and because there were mice scampering about the ground: they were clearly used to human food being around), and went to sleep right as the weather fully cleared and the stars came out.
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The following morning, we uneventfully crossed the river and hiked out the remaining two miles (and I went on to pick up Katrina and the kids from the airport, for our joint week at a resort on the east side of Kauai).






























