Showing posts with label Travels. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Travels. Show all posts

Thursday, January 18, 2024

Colombia Paragliding, January 2024

I have just returned from a paragliding trip to Colombia – and what a special trip it was! 9 days of flying (flying every single day!) for a total of nearly 20 hours of airtime, setting several personal bests (longest flight both by time and distance; reaching the highest altitude to date) and acquiring new skills and experiences (flying to cloudbase, flying near/into the wispy parts of clouds, landing in random fields scouted from the air, and having the right setup for long flights).





My brother was already in Colombia, and my mom and I joined him there. I would fly solo, while my mom would fly tandem with him (except on one of the days where I flew tandem with Ariel instead, so that he could narrate his thought process through the sky).




We stayed in a beautiful villa in Santa Elena, a 20-minute ride from the landing zone, with another 20 minutes by Jeep from there to the launch. Most days looked as follows:

  1. Eat breakfast
  2. Take a taxi to the landing zone
  3. Take a jeep to the launch
  4. Take off, find a thermal, and climb up to cloud level.
  5. Determine where the next thermal might be, and glide to that. Keep going for an hour or two or three.
  6. Eventually land either at the landing zone, or in some random farm field, and figure out a way to get back.
  7. Swim at the pool (we had our own pool at the villa, and it was awesome!)
  8. Dinner
  9. Rinse and repeat




The Colombia clouds were wonderful, a land of puffy marshmallow-like animal shapes. I was initially fearful of the clouds, having heard of the dreaded "cloud suck"; but I gradually figured out central clouds are to cross-country flying, and how it's possible to avoid getting sucked up by maintaining the proper angle to the cloud. The clouds became a welcome altitude refill station, and also just really beautiful things to fly through on the edges. It was of course pivotal to be aware of any other pilots in the area and make sure you were the only one in the vicinity – and there were hundreds of pilots in the air – and to also have a compass and the techniques for getting down. But with those prerequisites fulfilled, the clouds were fantastic.





A fun element of flying in Colombia was landing anywhere – the countryside is full of fields, and there's always some mowed-down or recently-sowed field that can be used if needed – and then packing up, walking to the nearest road, and hitching a ride. The walks through the fields were always scenic, and added a dose of adventure.



Some of the days had more adventure to them than others. I always write a flight log after each of my flights; copying a few of the more interesting logs here:

January 12 (Day 5): 1 hour and 7 minutes:

For the second time in as many days, got soaking wet — this time, along with the wing. After waiting 2-3 hours on launch and with only a couple hours of daylight remaining, we finally saw what looked like a good (or at least, workable) window of opportunity. Took off, and was able to soar near launch, but wasn’t really making progress. NW wind was picking up to 10ish mph, blowing away thermals. Decided to ditch the hill and fly south to another one facing directly into NW, which Ariel and our mom were already on at cloudbase. Arrived a 1k feet AGL and immediately started rising, soaring up to near cloudbase. Noticed rain moving in from NE, and also some further in the valley to the West. Right around that time, started feeling mild drizzle, and decided to stop climbing up and instead go to an LZ field. The face kept wanting to soar me up, so did speedbar (but no big ears to have more forward momentum and since wing was starting to get wet). Once I got closer to a good field, and as rain started intensifying, did some quality spirals to about 500 AGL (figured would be good speed and wing loading, and that getting down and wing less soaked in the air was a priority). Had a choice between two fields, a soccer one and a farm field. All other things being equal, would have preferred the grass on the soccer field, but didn’t like that it was narrow into the wind, and surrounded by trees on both ends. Opted for the farm field instead, giving myself clearance in front and behind. Despite visible gusts on vegetation, landing was perfect, albeit completely vertical. Was preparing to get dragged by the wing while on the ground and need to immediately de-power it, but it dropped into a small 1-ft ditch behind the raised planted portion and lay happily there.

Meanwhile, the rain intensified further. I hid the harness into a black compactor bag, figuring to prioritize the harness and the reserve therein. I also hid my flight deck and the front-mount reserve contained therein, though it turned out that it had already got pretty wet during flight, so ultimately decided to repack the reserve back at our villa; a later story. Despite getting caught in the rain, I felt good about my wing-handling and decision-making once I was in the thick of it.

While it lay in the ditch, the wing immediately accumulated a few inches of water and got completely soaked; I imagined I’d soon start seeing fish swim in it. I drained it and moved it to a flat spot, then put into stuff sack with the still-wrapped-in-plastic harness. I walked into the road and towards where Ariel had landed near a church. I almost reached them half-a-mile later, when a car containing my mom and Ariel picked me up, and took us all back to the villa.

At the villa, we got cracking on drying gear. I lay my wing out on the covered wraparound patio. I stuck a bunch of plastic patio chairs under the wing to allow for airflow, and appropriated two of the rooms’ fans to billow the wing. It worked like a charm, and was totally dry by the following morning.

We also had my two reserves to deal with. The harness one was pretty dry, so we let it be. But the front-mount had taken the brunt of the rain’s beating, and was visibly wet. We decided we’d repack it — but only it — the following morning. That way it wouldn’t take all day, and I’d have the “insurance policy” of one professionally-packed-but-maybe-slightly damp reserve, vs one that we packed ourselves but that was guaranteed dry.

The villa — we came to think of it as the “room of requirements” — was ideal for the whole process the following morning. From drying the reserve by draping it over the table and blowing a fan at it; to having a long living/dining/kitchen room for the actual repack; to having a heavy kitchen table for tying into on one end and a convenient cabinet (plus a fork for holding it shut) on the other; to even wine bottles that we used as weights. The repack took about 2 hours total, though I think if we did it again it would have taken half that. Once it was done, we reloaded into the front-mount reserve container and viola, good as new!

That’s the end of that saga, right? Stay tuned for the next installment.


January 13 (Day 6, the next day): 1 hour and 50 minutes:
With my front-mount repacked that morning, we headed to fly, arriving around 3pm and with ambitions to fly for a couple hours before things shut down around 5:30pm. It was the neighboring launch (Jorge’s launch). Ariel took off first, I followed 10 minutes later. Literally three seconds into my flight and some 20-30 ft in the air — as I wiggled to get more comfortable in my harness — the newly-packed white-as-snow reserve flopped out of its container and into my lap. Yikes!
I instinctively grabbed it and tried to find a place to stuff it. I first put it against my chest, but — if I wasn’t holding it with at least one hand — it was precarious there, and it falling out and opening would have been really unfortunate news. I next moved it between my legs, squeezing tight. This worked, freed my hands, and would be sustainable for the 7 minutes it would take to get to the landing zone. I radioed Ariel that I have an emergency, and — all thought of flying for a couple hours forgotten — made a straight-line dash to the landing field. 
I should mention that the day looked PERFECT, and the air was lifty. It seemed a shame to land, figure out what’s wrong with the reserve, take a truck back up, and maybe have a 15-minute extended sledride in the very last of the daylight, if that. I also realized that if the reserve were to stay between my legs, I would almost certainly drop it right before landing, undoing the hour+ of packing it, and possibly getting dragged in the process. Sobered by this thought, I undid the top (non-weight-bearing) chest strap of the harness, exposing a void into which I could stuff the reserve, bound by my lap on the bottom, the empty reserve container in the front, my stomach in the back, and webbing on either side. The only side missing was the top; and in due time I figured out that re-clasping the chest strap would solve that problem for me too. Unorthodox, sure, but no longer an emergency.
During all that time of fiddling with the setup, I was hightailing it to the landing zone. The topography descends fairly steeply there, whereas the air was buoyant and I had lost hardly any height. This was important, because I only dared let go of the brake lines and fiddle with my gear because I knew that I had many many hundreds of feet of clearance beneath me. Now that my reserve no longer risked flipping out — and with still my primary harness reserve attached (most pilots only fly with one), and this one also huckable by undoing just one strap, it occurred to me that maybe I don’t need to land after all. I turned around and came back to the hill and to Ariel. 
The middle portion of the flight was fun but not especially memorable. The Pacifico west wind had picked up, blowing away thermals in the valley, and forcing us to remain near the mountains and their ridge lift. I stayed at launch height for a significant time, but eventually started climbing up and was able to reach cloudbase. Ariel and another glider — and some birds — hung out there for a bit, going in and out of the wispy bits of the cloud. Then, as the day started shutting down, Ariel suggested that we try to glide to Santa Elena (the town where we were staying), or as close as we could to it. Ariel did in fact make it on his higher-performance glider, albeit just barely, to the Santa Elena Siga La Vaca LZ. I did not, but I found a good field and landed there. I could have landed right next to the road, but I was filled with a desire to indeed make it as far as possible, so opted for a 15-minute walk back to the road (admittedly, at the time I didn’t realize it would be 15 minutes: I it turns out that aerial observations sometimes don’t match on-the-ground reality, and there was an overgrown 10-foot-deep creek ravine I would need to cross in order to take a shortcut; I opted for the long way instead). 
Once on the road, I was picked up by a couple motorcyclists who were towing a somewhat rickety trailer. Still, beggars couldn’t be choosers, and I figured that the odds of both my reserve AND a trailer malfunctioning on the same day were pretty slim. We also weren’t going that fast per se; but next time I’ll be sure to have my helmet handy to don on if I’m walking on a road. (Narrator’s commentary: the lesson didn’t immediately sink in, given that I ended up in the exact same predicament a couple days later. But the day after that, I did keep my helmet, and put it on when being picked up by a motorcyclist). 
After getting home, we figured out what was wrong with how we put in the reserve into the container. I won’t repeat that mistake again. A more general lesson is to shake the bajeezus out of the container after packing a reserve into it, esp if it’s a front-mount, which are a little more fiddly.


January 15 (Day 8): my longest flight ever, 4 hours and 22 minutes!

This was the flight where I really started piecing things together — and also my longest (both by time and distance) and highest-altitude one to date. My mom took a break from flying that day, so this time it was Ariel and me each on our solo wings. I once again set up a pee tube, and it worked without mishap. I also got two Gu energy gel packets from Andy — a game changer! — who cleverly attaches them to his flight deck with Velcro. In my coat pockets were two tiny water bottles. I was preparing for a long haul, and the day delivered!
Ariel launched first while I fiddled with my gear. Once I joined him, we essentially team-flew (mas-minus) the entire day. Ariel was on a higher-performance wing, so would often need to circle back to me, spiral down to me, wingover to me, etc. Still, we flew together, thermalling up to cloudbase and then gliding to the next thermal, over and over again. We used birds, other gliders, and — when all else failed — topographic intuition to find the triggers. We traveled north past the town of Costa Rica, past the land north of it, and probably another mile or two beyond that, before turning around and heading back. Once I got fairly low, but was able to find something workable and get back up to a comfortable altitude. A couple hours in, I sampled the Gu (scrumptious), drank a bit of water, and used the pee tube (though it’s apparently not quite so easy to relax the necessary muscles while flying!). Ariel, not equipped with the latter, top-landed and re-joined me twice over the course of the flight. 
Once back over launch, we were able to get really high, eventually to 9k on the mountain above the launch. There were neat views of the taller mountain ranges beyond the mountains that we were at. We could have stayed longer, but I felt like I’d already gotten a great experience, and I was getting a little tired. We cruised to the mountain north of launch, topped up, and headed due west to Santa Elena. We had plenty of height available, flying directly over our villa, and then circling over to the field northeast of it. I blew off some altitude by doing a few spirals. What a flight!
After packing up, we walked onto the road, where we were picked up by a motorcyclist hauling a triangular-shaped trailer (like one for carrying plywood, windows, etc). Ariel and I hung on either side, laughing uproariously, and were delivered safely to the town square (though I once again re-determined to make sure to have my helmet out when getting onto the road!)


January 16 (Day 9): 2 hours and 42 minutes

A magical flight, and — though it wasn’t the longest — it was in some sense the capstone of the trip and of my progression here. 

We started late, partially because the day looked like it would turn on late anyway, and partially to start packing. We also had a leisurely breakfast at the “Montifiori” cafe (our own name for it), and swam in the pool. Suddenly it was very much time to go, so away we sped.

On launch, there were somewhat thick clouds that were just starting to break apart. Ariel and my mom launched, and I followed right behind. Cloudbase was high and there was an inversion layer, but eventually we made it to the clouds and soared blissfully amidst them for a few minutes. I also munched on another Gu energy gel, drank some water, relaxed sufficiently to use the pee tube (talk about an outhouse with a view!), and generally felt very accomplished. As Ariel correctly pointed out, this trip — among other things — taught me the proper setup for being able to do longer flights elsewhere too. 

As the day started shutting down, with western wind blowing away thermals, I moved from the valley closer to the mountains. I spent the next hour ridge-soaring above launch, porpoising, doing teeny-tiny wingovers, and just enjoying the feel of being in the air. I decided not to try to make it to Santa Elena, but rather to land at the Piedechinche LZ: this would maximize my air time, and also offer me a quick ride back to town. I put on some music (Phantom of the Opera soundtrack in Russian) and had a grand old time in the air. I was the second-to-last wing to land, with the other pilot landing just 15 seconds after me. 

At the LZ, a motorcyclist offered to take be to the Siga La Vaca hotel/restaurant in Santa Elena, where Ariel and my mom were waiting. I’ve never ridden on a motorcycle before — and generally haven’t been a fan — but this was REALLY fun! I had my helmet handy this time (see, all the learnings from the trip were coming together by the end!), and enjoyed the 15-minute ride as a final way of parting with Colombia. 



Saturday, March 23, 2019

Backpacking in Patagonia

In December 2018, we went on a spectacular 2-week backpacking trip to Patagonia – one of the world’s premier trekking destinations, where the peaks of southern Chile and Argentina offer dramatic glacier-strewn vistas, notorious raging winds, and a welcome summer respite during the dark winter months of the Northern Hemisphere.


1st Hike: 87-mile Torres del Paine Circuit Backpacking Trip



A world-famous Chilean trek with fantastic peak formations, massive glaciers, and flower-covered fields dipping into ocean-like lakes.  All viewed via a very accessible trail:  highly maintained, low-elevation, relatively flat, and extremely popular, with flush toilets and hot showers, requiring advanced reservations.

Hiking out on the last day, we also got our first real glimpse of the beast known as the "Patagonian Wind": see Michael’s creative parody song ‘Patagonia’, in both Russian and English, inspired by this windy day.



2nd Hike: 5-Day Guided Ice Hike and Gorra Blanca Summit near Fitz Roy, with “Mountaineering Patagonia


Fantastic trip near the famous Fitz Roy area outside El Chalten in Argentina: trekking up a stunning valley towards Lago Electrico and onto Marconi Glacier, with fantastic views of Fitz Roy, Patagonian Ice Field, and surrounding peaks. And in the middle of the trip, summiting 9,500ft Mt. Gorra Blanca.


*          *          *


Extra photos from our first Torres del Paine Trek:

The “las Torres” – the iconic granite towers for which the park is named

The spectacularly-colored black-tipped "los Cuernos", or "the Horns"

Wild llama-like "guanacos" roam across South America
Right after trekking over the John Gardner Pass through a cold drizzly rain, we were greeted by an incredible rainbow stretching out over the massive Grey Glacier – quite an amazing reward!



And a few photos with us in it:










Wednesday, February 27, 2019

Patagonia song

In December 2018, we went on two spectacular backpacking trips in Patagonia.

After a week of hiking in Torres del Paine (the first of our two trips, a week-long 87-mile circuit in Chile), the combined effects of the scenery and wind inspired a song.  See the embedded video below, which I put together to a slideshow of thematically-picked pictures from the trip:

YouTube:  https://youtu.be/vtehfCz6OzY
Facebook:  https://www.facebook.com/zlatkovsky/videos/10100579665083825/


Let's face it, though:  Just one song isn't enough to describe how beautiful Patagonia was!  To try to remedy that, here is its musical cousin, with the same melody but with the lyrics in Russian (which is actually how I had originally conceived the song – the translation to English came second, during the second week of hiking, and was quite a fun challenge!)


YouTube:  https://youtu.be/aCBawvL0IAg
Facebook:  https://www.facebook.com/zlatkovsky/videos/10100579694784305/


If you liked it, and think that your friends might too, consider sharing it on Facebook  :-)


We took many more pictures than could fit into a single song, and we also had a whole second trip that we went on, near Fitz Roy in Argentina.  We'll be posting a compilation of those photos in the next couple weeks.


Lyrics: Patagonia (English)

Wind is howling, wind is raging –
Shrieking past each rock and tree
Like a wild mountain spirit
That was chained, and now broke free.
If to see Torres del Paine
You had traveled far and wide
Soon you'll be on first-name basis
With this beast, that's at your side...

Patagonia, Patagonia.
Over peaks and ice fields, Patagonia.
Patagonia, Patagonia.
Pata-pata-pata Patagonia!

But how beautiful the mountains!
And how splendid to behold
All these ridges, all these textures,
Every line so crisp and bold!
And when at each rocky cliff face
Glaciers with blue ice abound
Its no wonder that to hike here
Folks come from the world around.

Patagonia, Patagonia.
Over peaks and ice fields, Patagonia.
Patagonia, Patagonia.
Pata-pata-pata Patagonia!

From the glaciers water trickles –
Thus a river gets its birth
Down the cliff sides it rebounds,
Gurgling with frigid mirth.
Through the valley it meanders,
Polishing the ancient stone
While spring flowers at the foothills,
Add some beauty of their own...

Patagonia, Patagonia.
Over peaks and ice fields, Patagonia.
Patagonia, Patagonia.
Pata-pata-pata Patagonia!

From one valley to another,
On we walk through rain or shine.
On the face of the Gray Glacier
See a rainbow quite divine.
Walk through forests, where the tree trunks
From the wind stand halfway bent
We're just guests in wind's dominion –
Blow, wind, to your heart's content!

Patagonia, Patagonia.
Over peaks and ice fields, Patagonia.
Patagonia, Patagonia.
Pata-pata-pata Patagonia!



Lyrics: Патагония (Russian)

Ветер дует, и бушует
И ревет со всех сторон.
Будто бес в горах родился,
И с цепи сорвался он.
Коли ты к Торрес-дель-Пайне
Снарядился в дальний путь
Ты тут с ветром породнишься,
От него не увернуть...

Патагония, Патагония.
За горами, ледниками, Патагония.
Патагония, Патагония.
Со снегами и ветрами, Патагония!

Но какие здесь вершины,
И какая красота!
Впечатляет что рельеф их,
Что наклон и высота.
А когда на каждом склоне
Разместились ледники
Не спроста со всего мира
Сюда едут знатоки…

Патагония, Патагония.
За горами, ледниками, Патагония.
Патагония, Патагония.
С озёрцами и ручьями, Патагония!

С ледников стекают капли –
Так рождается река.
Не спеша она в долине
Обмывает гор бока.
Ну а склоны – вот красотки! –
Нарядились все в цветы,
Добавляя свой оттенок –
Нежной, пестрой, красоты!

Патагония, Патагония.
За горами, ледниками, Патагония.
Патагония, Патагония.
С многоцветными лугами, Патагония!

Перевал за перевалом,
Так неделю мы идём:
То под тучей, то под солнцем,
То под солнечным дождем.
То под радугой проходим,
То в густой ныряем лес –
Ну а кроны так и ходят,
Дуй же дуй, бесплотный бес!

Патагония, Патагония.
За горами, ледниками, Патагония.
Патагония, Патагония.
Со снегами и ветрами, Патагония!



PS:  Finally, if you can't get enough of travel-inspired songs by Yours Truly: see last year's Geothermal-themed "I Will Survive" parody, from our travels to Rotorua, New Zealand.

Sunday, August 26, 2018

Alaska adventures, August 2018

(Written by Katrina)

In early August, we went to visit Alaska and Michael’s parents for a short visit, and also got to re-meet-up with Erik’s family.

Our first day: Michael, Erik, and I took the scenic Alaska Railroad from Anchorage to Placer River, where we hiked 3 miles to Spencer Lake.
Bridge across Placer River, along hike towards Spencer Glacier

Michael and Katrina

Michael and Erik

At Spencer Lake, we packrafted on the lake to the terminus of the Spencer Glacier, exploring the fascinating way the ice spills into the water. 
Spencer Glacier, viewed from the lake

Exploring Spenscr Glacier by packraft
Erik in yellow boat, Katrina in green


Erik eating a chunk of glacier-ice
Erik on Spencer Glacier (having managed the difficult extraction from packraft onto the ice)

Exploring the ice caves created underneath glacier chunks




From there, we paddled past icebergs of fantastic shapes, where I could easily imagine creatures of all shapes and sizes frozen by enchantment, but ready to spring back to life with the right spell (like the Narnian courtyard filled with stone sculptures of animals waiting for life to be breathed back into them).

Icebergs towards the end of Spencer Lake

Distant view of icebergs from far shore of Spencer Lake

Paddling through some of the larger icebergs

We then paddled on the Class II Placer River back to the car – though the rain unfortunately obscured what would have been beautiful mountain views.  (If you're curious what it looks like in good weather, see the bottom third of Michael's blog post from two years ago, when he did this trip with his dad:  http://blog.michaelzlat.com/2016/08/alaska-2016-hiking-rafting-and-more.html)

* * * 

On the following day, I had long been looking forward to the rare adventure of going ice climbing at the Matanuska Glacier. Michael and I got a quick glimpse into ice climbing on a trip to Mt. Kazbek last summer, and found it to be remarkably awesome. But without more knowledge about glaciers, ice, anchors, and assembling the right gear (including ropes and climbing-specific crampons and ice axes), ice climbing is not something we would attempt by ourselves. This guided adventure with NOVA was an excellent and more thorough introduction into the sport, along with a great tour of the glacier. The location itself was incredibly scenic, with the Matanuska glacier melting into various pools and mudflats in the beautiful mountain-surrounded valley. And as an added bonus, Ariel – also visiting Alaska – was able to join us for his first experience with ice climbing.

Michael (with his new go-pro camera on his helmet), Katrina, and Ariel

On the Matanuska Glacier

We each had four climbs total: two climbing up a low-angled wall, one being lowered towards a crystalline-blue pool and then climbing back up, and a final, a more challenging climb that involved being lowered into a crevasse before climbing back up the fully vertical, very hard ice (its crust having never been softened by the sun). It was an awesome experience!

First and second climbs, on the same, low-angled wall:

Katrina on the first of her four ice climbs (complete with crampons on feet, harness, helmet, and two ice-climbing-specific ice axes)

Michael being lowered after completing his first ice-climb

Michael being lowered after first ice-climb
 3rd Climb:
Katrina being lowered down in order to being third climb
Katrina after having been lowered beside the crystalline-blue pool filled with melted glacier-water, ready to begin her third climb

Michael about to begin his third climb, with the ice-climbing-specific ice axes

Ariel finishing his third climb:

4th Climb:
Michael being lowered towards a crevasse for the fourth climb

Michael being lowered deeper into the crevasse

Michael deep in the crevasse, about to begin his fourth climb

Michael climbing back up from the crevasse

Continuing to climb up

Success! The most challenging of the four ice-climbs completed!

Video clips of Michael's climb:


Video of Ariel climbing:


Katrina being lowered for her fourth climb

Katrina being lowered towards the crevasse

Deep in the crevasse

Katrina climbing up

And continuing to climb up...
Video clips of Katrina's climb:



Beautiful views of the Matanuska Glacier, which is incredibly scenic in its own right:
Matanuska Glacier 
Beautiful pools at the base of the glacier





Michael with his new go-pro camera

Ariel in crampons

Ariel

 * * *

On the following day, we went to one of my all-time favorite hikes: the start of Crow’s Pass, this time with low-lying clouds and mist blowing through:


Can you spot the mountain goat?


Our third glacier seen in three days: this one terminating in a rushing waterfall

Before leaving Alaska, we enjoyed driving up to Talkeetna where we stayed with Erik and his family at a cabin by the lake.  It was a lovely quick jaunt to Alaska!